James Watriss

I had a similar issue. Used the slicer to remove .3mm from z height on the extruder cover, and reprinted. worked like a charm.

Hi! You're quite welcome. I'm enjoying the build.

Old one was printed with Polylite PETG. I wasn't getting great print quality with it. Now I'm using a spool from Novamaker, and have been happier with the results.

I'm revisiting and finishing off a printer that was half built last year, originally designed to run on 12V. So it hasn't even been turned on just yet. So, no creep.

It's a real E3D V6.

Just from my own experience, when I see a clamping feature that's fully contacting itself, it tells me that the full clamping force isn't being applied to the thing it's holding anymore. And aluminum will expand and contract a little from CTE, so being able to snug things up over time definitely helps.

I only cut .3mm off of the top of the print in the slicer, without modifying any other dimensions. So it should still be a nice tight fit, and everything should mate properly, but with very minute gaps on either side that can still be fully snugged.

Re: dimensions:

Went to rework my extruder this morning. Initially, I'd set it up for 12V, and had to change the heater cartridge to 24V. But while trying to loosen the screw in the heatblock, the heatsink started rotating in the extruder. It's held firmly in its orientation, but not clamped tightly enough to prevent rotation.

I think the extruder cover assembly actually needs to be printed a layer or two shorter than designed: The section that clamps the top of the hotend does fit the diameter of the well enough to hold the orientation, but needs enough interference fit when it's tightened down to keep the heatsink from rotating. A very slight gap between the extruder cover and the X carriage assembly in step 18 of section 3 should help it to clamp the heatsink properly.

I'm finding the same issue. It seems to be a conflict between his first step ("Wires face to the left") and his illustrations.

Ultimately, I didn't think it would be a huge functional issue. If the PSU overhangs by a few mm, it wouldn't really affect the ability to print.

BUT, it does allow for the power supply to act as a sort of diagonal brace, to help hold the Z-axis frame at 90. Without the lower PSU bracket, that wouldn't really work.

Yes, I am. Is there a different z helper for this? Or, is there some other detail I missed?

I have some professional grade machinist combination squares, and the joy of t-slot extrusions is that everything can be moved. So it was maybe a 5 minute job to make the adjustment. But I figured it would be worth passing on if I'm not the only one.

Feel free to email directly, I can send photos/ dimensions, etc, if it's useful.

I'm deeper into the build at this point, mounting the PSU. (Black Delta)

The build helper (z) seems to be too short: PSU overhangs by ~4.5mm, screw hole on the PSU lower mount doesn't line up.

z-helper measures about 105.6mm. Slicer has it at 106. Some shrinkage makes sense, it is January. But not 4.5 mm.

Thanks for all of this, BTW. It's a very workable kit, looking forward very much to using the finished printer.

18mm worked fine for me, but I had to use 12mm screws on the bottom.

I’ll note here that the zip tie end needs to be curled to go in easily, but also feel compelled to say kudos on the part design. My first gut reaction was “No way in !&&* this is going to go through, I’m going to have to pull this all apart to get the zip tie in there.” It was much easier than I’d expected.

Same. 18mm was too short.