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Inserting Hex Nuts: To assure that hex nuts are properly seated, do the following:
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Insert a screw through a washer.
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Insert the screw through the hole on the flat side (not the hex cavity side).
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Add the hex nut on the screw and tighten the screw.
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Ensure the hex nut is aligned with the hex cavity while tightening.
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When the nut is fully seated, you need to remove the screw being careful not to dislodge the nut.
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Inserting Nyloc Nuts: You can use the same method as hex nuts.
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Inserting Square Nuts: They tend to fall out if the piece holding them is inverted. After they are inserted, check that they are properly seated by inserting a screw to engage that nut.
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extruder_body
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extruder_cover
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extruder_idler
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pinda_mount
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hotend_collet_clip
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filament_sensor_cover
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Locate the extruder motor so the wires face to the left. Rotate the shaft so that the flat is facing up.
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Mount the Bondtech pulley on the extruder motor shaft with the toothed portion on top with the set screw contacting the flat portion of the shaft.
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The motor shaft should protrude by approximately 1mm.
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Secure the set screw to avoid the gear moving. We will fine tune the position later.
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Verify the motor cables orientation.
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Secure the extruder motor to the extruder_body using two M3x25 screws.
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Verify the motor cables orientation
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Press an M3 hex nut into the extruder_body.
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Insert three M3 hex nuts
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Insert two M3 nylock hex nuts
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Verify that the M3x25mm screws are snug
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Using an M3x10 screw attach the extruder_body to the x_carriage.
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Using an M3x40 screw and an M3 washer attach the extruder_body to the x_carriage.
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Verify that extruder_body and x_carriage are correctly aligned. Adjust if necessary with the M3x10 and M3x40 screws
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In order to avoid electrostatic discharge to the filament sensor, touch something metallic that is linked to the ground, for example pipework or a faucet.
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Verify that the laser sensor is clean. If not, use a cotton bud (q-tip) with a dab of Isopropyl alcohol.
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Insert the filament sensor into the extruder_body. Avoid touching any of the components on the PCB.
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Using an M3x10 screw, secure the filament sensor.
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Don't over-tighten the filament sensor to avoid damaging the PCB.
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Insert the small PTFE tube in the extruder_body
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Use two M3x10 screws and the filament_sensor_cover to close the top of the extruder_body
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Locate the Bondtech drive gear. This is the one that has NO set screw.
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Lubricate the needle bearings with a dab of lithium based grease
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Slide two Bondtech needle bearings in the Bondtech drive gear.
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Place the idler gear into the extruder_idler. Note the orientation of the teeth.
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Make sure that both needle bearings are still present in the idler gear.
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Insert the shaft from the direction as shown in the figure.
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Insert a square nut in the lateral pocket.
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Double check the orientation of the gears.
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Double check that no needle bearings fell out during these steps
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Slide a M3 washer on a M3x40 screw.
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Insert the screw in the top left hole of the x_carriage until it is just protruding from the other side of the extruder_body.
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Add a M3 nylon washer on the end of the screw.
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Add the extruder_idler in the opening. and push the screw.
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Leave a space to insert the second M3 nylon washer.
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Insert the second M3 nylon washer and push the screw further to secure it.
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Slightly tighten the screw, ensuring that the extruder_idler can still rotate freely.
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Hotend wires are not visible in these images. Use the heatblock to orientate the hotend correctly.
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Push down the PTFE tube while raising up the collet.
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Insert the hotend_collet_clip. This locks the PFTE tube in place.
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Insert the hot end into the extruder_body so that the heater and thermistor wires are properly oriented.
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Note the position of the heater and thermistor wires.
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Insert one M3 square nut
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Insert one M3 hex nut
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Insert one M3 hex nut
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Insert two M3x40 screw to lock the hotend in place
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Check that the hotend has not rotated, adjust if necessary.
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Carefully route the motor wires as shown in the figure.
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Make sure the wires sit correctly in the channel.
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This surface will be touching the extruder_body. Wires are going out from this side.
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Carefully route the hotend fan wires in the x_carriage.
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Attach the hotend fan with four M3x14 rounded head screws.
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Check that no wires are pinched.
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Check hotend fan orientation.
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Open the extruder_idler
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Insert a piece of 1.75 mm filament through the extruder_body into the PFTE tube.
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Using the Bondtech set screw, carefully center the filament on the drive teeth.
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Tighten the set screw. Don't tighten too much as you will damage the thread.
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Remove the filament.
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This is a good moment to put a dab of lithium based grease on the gears. Make sure to only put grease on the gears, not the drive teeth!
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Make sure you have totally removed the filament from the extruder_body.
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Slide an extruder spring on a M3x40 screw.
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Close the extruder_idler door.
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Slide the screw with the extruder spring in the extruder_body.
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Tighten the screw in the extruder_idler until the head is flush with the surface of the body.
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If you have trouble closing the extruder_idler, try rotating the Bondtech idler gear with your finger.
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Place a square nut in the extruder_body for the pinda_mount.
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Slide an M3x10 screw in the pinda_mount and engage the square nut, but do not tighten.
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Insert the Pinda in the mount so that the sensor end is 12mm below the bottom of the pinda_mount. Tighten the screw just enough to keep the Pinda from falling out. The optimum Pinda position will be adjusted later.
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Route the Pinda wires
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Route the print fan wires
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Secure the cables with a zip tie. Be sure to leave some slack since the Pinda position will need to be adjusted later.
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This is an example of how the Pinda and print fan cables should be wired.
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There is currently no official print fan shroud for the Bear extruder. I recommend the original R1 shroud from Prusa. Some other good alternatives are the shroud from RH_Dreambox or Robps.
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Insert the print shroud. If necessary, slightly unscrew the print fan.
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Use an M3x10 screw to attach the shroud
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Congratulations you have finished this chapter :-)
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Go to the next chapter: 4. Extruder and X axis assembly
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To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.
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3 Comments
It took me just over 40 minutes to complete this section, so a time estimate of 45-50 minutes sounds about right.