My Guides
Guides I've Contributed To
Guide Comments
Reputation over time
Reputation Breakdown
Event | Count | Delta |
---|---|---|
Someone completed your guide | 490 | 12606 |
Admin approved your guide | 36 | 7884 |
Admin approved your wiki | 46 | 2295 |
Categorization accepted | 74 | 70 |
Someone liked your guide | 3 | 23 |
2
It is possible that some PETG have slightly different shrinkage coefficients but it is not the only possibility. Printing too fast may affect this as well. I don't know if you are using the original smooth rods but they may have a different tolerance value. The printer you are using can also affect this (belt path issue for example). Finally the slicer plays also a role, please stick to the recommended settings, including the slicer. The best way, but more expensive, is to buy a reamer just bellow 8mm, like 7.95mm.
We are still recommending the Bear calibration firmware for the calibration steps and go to latest Prusa firmware for daily prints.
Hi Rob, I am really sorry to hear that and thank you for the feedback. Could you please contact the reseller to get replacements? Keep me in touch if they can't solve your issue.
Hi Ben. In the latest firmware 3.12, Prusa has implemented a new safety for the hotend and it is very precise. If you are using a different hotend than original V6 then you might get a Thermal Anomaly error. Prusa is collecting data from users with E3D Revo hotend to make this hotend compatible, if this is the hotend you are using and you like to help, please share your data here: https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmwar...
Hi and thank you for your feedback. The design is already made to be tight and avoid the hotend rotating. This is not a common issue so here are some point to check before:
1. Did you use PETG? Plastic does creep over time and some filaments more than others. PETG doesn't creep much but Nylon do it a lot.
2. Sometimes if the extrusion multiplier is a little too low it could affect this. Check if you see signs of underextrusion on the parts.
3. In some special circumpstences, like a hotend fan failure, the heatsink could get warm enough to deform the parts. It is a serious issue and the firmware have safeties for this but maybe you had this in the past.
4. The extruder is designed for genuine V6 hotend but I know many are using clones. If you are running a clone it might be the manufacturing tolerances that are slightly different that E3D hotend.
Please keep me in touch if one of those points is a potential cause for you.
I am happy you could solve it. I can see how this could be an issue so I will make an update on the printed part. Thanks for reporting it.
Hi James, are you using the black PSU?
The source files are available here: https://github.com/gregsaun/prusa_i3_bea...
It is explained in step 12, let me know if you still need clarification.
Happy you like the instructions. Yes you can go back to Prusa firmware or continue to use our firmware, as you prefer. If you go back to Prusa firmware and you are not using the Noctua hotend fan, then make sure to set Altfan to OFF in the experimental menu as explained in this page: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/experim...
Page 1 of 14
Next