That is a good tip. I tried to insert it but there are a bit too much information already on this step and I am not sure it is good to add one more. I prefer to keep it as a comment for now.

This an extra security in case of the user didn’t read the first chapter where he should have tested the belt before starting disassembly: 1. Preflight check and disassembly. In most of the case it is a problem with the calibration of extrusion multiplier (and you really must calibrate extrusion multiplier for functional parts, it is not optional). I have removed the “non-genuine” to make it smoother. If you make the groove bigger then the belt might get too loose in the pocket and can move or even slip. I have planed to see if I can find a way to improve this to make it more “easy”.

This is a good idea, thank you.

Locknut is important here to avoid the belt tension changing over time due to vibrations. The official kits are coming with nylock and you can also reuse some from the Original Prusa printer.

This is correct and also explained in the print settings here: https://github.com/gregsaun/bear_extrude... . Note that some customers have reported issues with eSUN black PETG that was not blocking IR light completely.

Correct, thanks, I have fixed it.

Greg Palmer> no need to be super precise with the alignment with this plate, this is only to ensure that the screw will reach the t-nuts when you assemble the Z axis. No need to rollback. Thanks for the feedback, I will improve this.

Thanks, fixed!

If your cable and filament sensor are genuine and come from Prusa you have room for the cables. I have heard that some clones have larger cables, in this case you can use this optional part: https://github.com/gregsaun/bear_extrude...

That was missing in the BOM, sorry for that and now fixed. Official kits have the washer and if this is not the case you can contact the distributor.